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Trip Reports
South Africa - east and west Cape
Autumn 2008
Leopard – Mkhuze NP
Arranged by Birding Africa for Eustace Barnes. grallaria@aol.com
Leaders - Dalton Gibbs, Bob Rickards, Joe Grosel
Many thanks to Callan Cohen and all at Birding Africa for organising a faultless trip for us.
The highest concentration of endemic birds in Africa is found in Southern Africa, where of the 180 endemic species, most are found in South Africa. Many of these birds are confined to the arid western regions or to the ‘fynbos’ and ‘Karoo’ vegetation of the southwest. Equally important however, has been the evolution of taxa on the isolated montane regions and the relictual humid forests they harbour. In addition to the endemic species South Africa also has a high number of more generally distributed African species, making his country a great destination as an introduction to the birdlife of Africa. The trip was planned to visit virtually every corner of the country and give us a good chance of seeing most of the endemic species. This is only possible because of the excellent services, roads and hotels available to us.
The tour started in the arid region of the northwest through which the Orange River flows, creating a vital strip of lush vegetation through an otherwise very arid desert. We began by following the course of this river and but then cut south across the vast deserts and semi-deserts to the Atlantic coast at Lambert’s Bay. We then continued south to Cape Town through the succulent ‘fynbos’ vegetation and coastal habitats. The montane scenery around Cape Town is beautiful, especially in the Cape of Good Hope National Park where flowering proteas and the famous tabletop mountains combine to create a very distinctively South African flavour.
The second part of our tour took us east to Kwazulu-Natal where we visited the ‘mist forests’ and hilly grasslands of the Oribi Gorge and Ingeli forest where we found the rare Blue Swallow and Cape Parrot. A short distance away we then visited the Drakensberg mountains and the ‘Royal Kingdom’ of Lesotho , a tiny country that lies mostly over 2000m and is truly rugged with some of the most impressive landscapes in the region. A good many of the endangered birds of South Africa inhabit the upland grasslands that lie beneath the Drakensberg ridge and we were to visit a number of these areas. The rolling grasslands of the Underberg is one such area and was the only location we saw Wattled Cranes and one of the few areas where Yellow-breasted Pipits may be found. As we moved on we descended from this region to the tropical coastal lowlands at St Lucia and a complete change. In this region the dense forests and mangroves lying adjacent to acacia woodlands provide habitat for many species that just extend south to this point in South Africa such as Livingstone’s Turaco and Woodward’s Batis. A little further north in the Mkhuze Game Reserve the landscape and fauna become more redolent of the Africa we see on natural history programmes. White Rhinoceros, the beautiful Nyala, Giraffe and Zebra ambling around in dense acacia woodland and savannas are more typical of the region. Further exploring the diversity of this wonderful country we headed north to revisited the upland grasslands around Waakestroom looking for another selection of threatened birds including Blue Korhaan and Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks. The final leg of the trip took us east again to the famous Kruger National Park where we saw large numbers of larger mammals and a good selection of wetland and open country birds. Our journey to Johannesburg was no less interesting as we travelled west to the northern ridges of the Drakensberg to see the lovely Taita Falcon and then north to a site for the now rare Bat Falcon at a well known nest. This was then the end of a very rewarding trip to South Africa.
ITINERARY
14th October Morning flight from London bound for Johannesburg. Night at Dove’s Nest Guest House near Johannesburg airport.
15th Oct Early morning birding around the guesthouse. Morning flight to Upington. Afternoon visit to the Spitskop Nature Reserve. Night at Affinity Guest house by the Orange river.
16th Oct. Early morning birding along the Orange river in front of the guest house. Drive to Augrabies National Park. Night in Augrabies NP.
17th Oct. Early morning walk in Augrabies National Park. Drove to Pofadder. Night Pofadder Hotel.
18th Oct. After some final birding around Pofadder we will continue westwards to Springbok. Late afternoon bird road back towards Pofadder. Night Springbok.
19th Oct. Today we head to the small port of Lambert’s Bay in Western Cape province, where we will stay overnight.
20th - 22nd Oct. Cape town area. Night Cape town area.
23rd Oct. DeHoop Nature reserve and Potberg area.
24th Oct. Fly Durban. Night in Durban.
25th Oct. Drove south to Oribi gorge. Night Ingeli Forest lodge.
26th Oct. Ingeli Forest. Underberg area. Night Underberg.
27th Oct. Sani pass and Drakensberg. Night Underberg.
28th Oct. Xumeni forest. Drive Durban to collect Joe. Night Eshowe.
29th Oct. Continue northwards to Saint Lucia for a night.
30th Oct. After birding to Cape Vidal from Saint Lucia we drove northwards to the Mkuze area for a three nights stay, arriving in time for some initial exploration.
31st Nov Musi pan near Mkuze Game Reserve. False Bay.
1st Nov Mkuze Game Reserve. Night Sand forest lodge.
2nd Nov After some final birding in the Mkhuze area we work our way up through the grassy uplands to Wakkerstroom for a two night stay.
3rd Nov. Birding the grasslands around Waakestroom.
4th - 5th Nov. Drive to the Kruger National Park for two nights.
6th Nov. Today we head for the Blyde River canyon for Taita Falcon.
7th Nov. Drove north to Polokwane and then return to Johannesburg for our flight to London.
8th Nov Arrival London 1.50pm
DAILY DIARY
After a rather long but uneventful flight to Johannesburg we enjoyed a night at the pleasant Dove’s nest Guest house a few hundred metres from the airport. The following morning we were woken by a cacophonous chorus with Hadeda Ibis being the noisiest contributor. The garden was full of Karoo Thrushes, Cape Sparrows and Southern Masked Weavers and little further searching revealed Red-faced Mousebird, several stunning Red-billed Wood-Hoopoes, numerous Crested Barbets a family group of Grey Go-away Birds and a pair of Cape Bush Robins. While this was going on we were treated to the constant chorus of Red-eyed, Cape Turtle and Palm Doves. We also found a single Rameron Pigeon. We then packed and headed to the airport for our flight to Upington.
On arrival we met up with Dalton Gibbs, our guide for the western cape, and headed to the Spitskop Nature Reserve near town, an area of dry bush with scattered ‘kopje’ (rocky outcrops). We found a good number of the stunning Northern Black Korhaan and three Kori Bustards, two birds we were keen to see at this site.
Kori Bustard
There were also numerous Cape-Turtle and Laughing Doves, Acacia pied Barbet and Fiscal Shrikes. We made a good start on the larks with Sabotha (the form naevia a possible split as Bradfield’s Lark), Spike-heeled, Eastern Clapper and Fawn-coloured Larks along with Mountain Wheatear and the similar Southern Anteating Chat. We saw several pairs of Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Black-chested Prinia, Orange-eared Warbler, Chat Flycatcher, Cape Sparrow, Southern Masked Weaver and Scaly-feathered Finch. Another great part of birding trips to Africa is the number of mammals one sees. We saw a pair of Bat-eared Dogs in the late afternoon and thereafter numerous other mammal species as the temperature dipped below 25 degrees. These included (Red) Haartebeest and Blesbok along with numerous Springbok and a single Steenbok. In a large herd of mammals around a tiny waterhole we saw Burchell’s Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Springbok and 48 stunning Gemsbok. After watching these lovely creatures we also located a single Eland a little further along the track. It was then time to head back to Upington where we also found a single Cape or African Clawless Otter on the Orange River in front of our hotel accompanied by numerous Red-eyed Bulbuls and Orange-river White-eyes.
Springbok
The following morning we woke to the usual chorus of Hadeda Ibis and a pre-breakfast session along the waterfront produced Yellow-billed Duck and Cape Teal along with several pairs of Pied Kingfisher and a single Giant Kingfisher. Numerous Greater Striped and White-throated Swallows hunted over the river along with Little Swifts. Meanwhile, a pair of White-backed Mousebirds were building a nest in the garden. After breakfast we followed the course of the Orange River towards the Augrabies National Park. The lodge in the park is located above the drammatic Augrabies Falls where the Orange river is forced through a dramatic series of gorges. We searched the main trail finding Sickle-winged and Familiar Chats, Lesser Honeyguide, Dusky Sunbird, Pale-winged Starling and White-throated Canary. Along a narrow stream we found a superb Hammerkop, Black-headed Heron and more White-backed Mousebirds. We picked up the Short-toed Rock Thrush, Acacia Pied Barbet, African Reed Warbler, Red-eyed Bulbul and Common Waxbill. Around the restaurant Cape Robin-Chats, Pale-winged Starlings and Orange River White-eyes were common. In the canyon below the waterfall we saw a Peregrine of the form minor and a good number of Alpine Swifts. We then retired for a good nights rest.
A brief pre-breakfast session produced little of note except for a stunning pair of Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters and a single Bru-bru shrike. We then drove on to Pofaddder stopping to look at a Greater Kestrel and several colonies of Sociable Weavers until we found a pair of Pygmy Falcons. These charismatic little falcons enjoy a splendid symbiosis with these weavers; the weavers provide the nest site in an otherwise treeless environment and in return the falcons keep lizards and small snakes in check. Stopping at the first boulder strewn slope we located a pair of Cinnamon-breasted Warblers and watched them at length before continuing to the urban delights of Pofadder. In the late afternoon we headed north along a desert road towards Namibia. We found Karoo Chat to be numerous and picked up several long-billed Larks and a single singing Stark’s Lark. We had great looks at a Rock Kestrel, recently split from the northern Common Kestrel. We then returned to Pofadder and took the road south-east towards Springbok, stopping at a waterhole not far from town. In the late afternoon we found a stunning pair of Burchell’s Coursers and a little later on three Double-banded Coursers. The waterhole was in constant use and we saw a good number of Namaqua Doves and Yellow Canaries coming to drink. Scurrying around the scrubby fields were several Red-capped Larks and a single Bokmakiere. At dusk we headed back to Pofadder for the night seeing Scrub Hare on the way.
An early start saw us heading south to the water hole. Along this road the landscape becomes ever more arid and treeless. We saw Pale-chanting Goshawk and the pair of Burchell’s Courser, a pair of Namaqua Sandgrouse and numerous Red-capped Larks, Larklike Buntings and Yellow Canaries. We then tracked down three calling Karoo Korhaan and subsequently saw several more along the roadside.
Karoo Korhaan
While undertaking this easy exercise we were lucky with a single Bradfield’s Swift scything low over the scrubby vegetation. Later in the morning we then stopped for larks at a number of spots and saw Spike-heeled and Long-billed Larks and eventually Sclater’s Lark. On towards Springbok across the open plains we found four superb Ludwig’s Bustards and a number of Jackal Buzzards and an adult Spotted Eagle Owl roosting at the base of a water tower.
Spotted Eagle Owl
In the late afternoon we retraced our steps back towards Pofadder and found a single Black Harrier. This was a complete surprise to us all. We then found a Black Eagle nest and waited for the adults to return, which they did. In the end we were able to watch a recently fledged bird attempt flight and the adults displaying over the cliff. We then picked up Large-billed lark, Karoo Eremomela and Cape Penduline Tit before the light faded to dusk. Having whiled away much of the early evening we headed back to Springbok in search of the hoped for Cape Eagle Owl. We managed to find this magnificent bird and watched it surveying the ground from a number of telegraph poles. It was then time for celebratory drinks and a good rest.
Gemsbok
Today started slowly with a pleasant breakfast at 7.30am. We then headed out to the Goegap Nature Reserve on the edge of town. We found a number of pairs of Layard’s Tit-Babbler and a good many Bokmakiere before heading south-west towards Lambert’s Bay on the coast. We stopped at a few places en route to find Cape Bulbul, Cape Weaver and other species more typical of the humid Fynbos. As we travelled southwards the arid, semi-desert landscape that we had grown accustomed to gave way to the stunning coastal fringe of the southwestern Cape region. We stopped at a narrow gorge en route to Sandberg and found several pairs of Protea Seedeater, Steaky-headed Canary, Cape siskin, Cape Canary, Fairy Flycatcher and other species typical of the region. We got superb views of Black or Verreaux’s Eagle and Rameron Pigeon.
Black Eagle
Along the narrow country roads we then saw a few pairs of Cape Francolin and Fiscal Flycatcher. Upon arrival at Lamberts Bay we paid a short visit to the harbour to enjoy watching the spectacle of a huge colony of Cape Gannets clustered in a tight mass on the ground whilst hundreds more hung overhead. We also saw hundreds of Cape Cormorants and a few Crowned Cormorants resting on the rigging of old boats anchored in the harbour. Also Cape and Hartlaub’s Gulls were common along with numerous Swift and Common Terns and a pair of White-fronted Plovers.
Cape Gannet colony
Our day started with a visit to the Gannetry in Lambert’s Bay harbour. Watching these aggressive birds jousting and jostling for position in the thronging mass of the colony was a sight not to be forgotten. We also saw a number of Sooty Shearwaters, White-chinned Petrels and an Arctic Skua on the sea before returning to our hotel for yet another full English breakfast. We then headed south to the West Coast National Park; a large area of coastal ‘fynbos’ and wetlands. On the way we found a number of pairs of the elegant Blue Crane and good numbers of wildfowl at the numerous roadside ponds. In the park we found up to eight Black Harriers and three beautiful Southern Black Korhaan. The open grassy areas held numerous Large-billed and Karoo Larks and Southern Grey Tit. We gave time to check the waders in the bay and found Whimbrel, Curlew, Greenshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Knot, Curlew Sandpiiper, Little Stint, Ringed Plover, Turnstone and Sanderling. At the seabird hide we were very lucky and found a flock of Lesser Flamingoes and a single Damara Tern. This tern is now a very localised species that we did not expect at all. Of the more typically African wildlife Common Ostrich was indeed common on the fynbos heath-like areas along with Eland, Steenbok and Cape Francolins. At last light we headed south to Capetown arriving rather later than planned after an excellent day.
Cape Francolin
Cape Town is famous for its fine natural setting close to the magnificent scenery of Table Mountain and the Cape of Good Hope. This wind-swept area at the meeting point of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans does not possess a very diverse landbird fauna but a high proportion is endemic. Our first day was devoted to exploring the Cape point and table mountain area. After a delightful breakfast (Full English of course) we headed off to the coast in search of Bank Cormorant which we duly found on an exposed headland. The three endemic cormorants have all declined significantly, especially the Bank Cormorant. At the site were also a number of Crowned and Cape Cormorants along with Black Oystercatcher. We then crossed the headland to Partridge point where we quickly found a pair of Ground Woodpeckers. This is an interesting species that has obvious affinities with the Andean Flicker. At this promontory we saw a huge Southern Right Whale and more Cormorants. The whale was loafing in the water beneath us giving excellent views. We then continued along the coast to the Simon town penguin colony. The genuinely bizarre Jackass Penguin put on a great show before we drove on to the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in the woodland at the foot of Table Mountain. This marvellous garden provided us with outstanding views of Cape Batis, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Cape Sugarbird, Olive Thrush, Sombre Bulbul, Dusky Flycatcher and a number of Malachite Sunbirds.
Cape Sugarbird
Our local guide, Dalton Gibbs then insisted we go to his reserve on the Cape Flats. An area of wetlands in the city that offer fantastic opportunities for seeing wildfowl. Particularly memorable were Southern Pochard, White-backed Duck and numerous Cape Shovelor but we also saw Cape Teal, Maccoa, Red-billed and Yellow-billed Ducks dozens of Black-necked Grebes and White Pelicans. In the reeds we found Little Rush Warbler and Cape Sedge Warbler along with Purple Gallinule, numerous Night Herons and Purple Heron while in the short turf near the dunes we were treated to great views of Cape Longclaw. Our final treat was a boat ride to visit a huge heronry in the reserve where there were huge numbers of Cattle and Intermediate Egrets, Glossy and Sacred Ibis, African Spoonbill and Purple, Black-headed and Grey Herons. This was completed with some good views of the resident Hippos.
Rondevleit Nature Reserve
Today we started out at 7.45am and headed east to the Koeberg Biosphere Reserve. We first stopped at Pringle Bay and found three Cape Rockjumpers. An absolutely stunning species and both males put on a great performance. We also saw boh Sentinel and Cape Rock Thrushes at this site. The former a rather rare species in the region. We then continued east to the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens where we managed to hear several Victorin’s Warblers. The use of tape is essential for this species. After working on two we did manage to lure a single male to our feet at which point it revealed itself briefly. We also managed to find Southern Boubou, Cape Batis and Paradise Flycatcher at this site but not much else. In the heat of the afternoon we then continued a short distance east to a small reserve where Cape Clapper lark occurs. However, despite use of tape and walking the entire reserve we failed to see or hear one. Our reward was nevertheless very great apparently. We flushed a Hottentot Buttonquail which flew some considerable distance in clear view until it landed in the thick fynbos vegetation, never to be seen again. We then began our return to Cape Town via Stoney point at Betty’s Bay. There is a small reserve here that protects a large mainland colony of African Penguins along with Bank, Crowned and Cape Cormorants. We had a fantastic time seeing huge numbers of penguins and all three endemic cormorants together at the end of such a superb day.
Stoney Point
The following day after a huge breakfast we headed east to the de Hoop Nature Reserve. On the way we saw Pin-tailed Whydah, Pied Starling and numerous Red Bishops while in the open fields of the Overberg we counted nearly one hundred Blue Cranes. On arrival at the de Hoop reserve we found Fork-tailed Drongo at the entrance gate. We then had a pleasant lunch on the campsite watching Southern Boubou, Bar-throated Apalis, Cape Weaver and Southern Tchagra. In the late afternoon we left the park and almost immediately found six Denham’s Bustard. One of these birds was a displaying male that we watched strutting around. A fantastic display. We must not forget to mention the mammals at this reserve, where we easily saw the lovely Bontebok, Cape Mountain Zebra and Eland.
Agulhas Long-billed Lark
Leaving the reserve we went in search of larks and quickly picked up the Agulhas Long-billed Lark and Agulhas Clapper Lark near to our accommodation at Potberg. In the late evening we again saw dozens of Blue Cranes and a single Spotted Eagle Owl.
Blue Cranes
A pleasant pre-breakfast session at the Potberg end of the deHoop Nature Reserve was very enjoyable. We saw a single sub-adult Black Sparrowhawk, a number of Jackal and Steppe Buzzards and, of course, Cape Vulture at the only remaining colony in the Cape. A short walk through the eucalypt woodlands near the tourist office produced the very localised Knysna Woodpecker, Fork-tailed Drongo, Fical Shrike, Cape Batis and Bar-throated Apalis. We then returned to our pleasant cottage accommodation seeing Blue Cranes, Aghulas Long-billed and Clapper larks en route. We then took our leave and headed for Capetown airport for our late afternoon flight to Durban on the Kwazulu-Natal coast for a nights stay. On the way we saw a small flock of Wattled Starlings. At the airport we said our goodbyes to Dalton who had a wedding to attend and a presentation to receive. On arrival in Durban we met up with Bob Rickards our guide for the next few days.
Long-tailed Widow
After a windy wet night we woke to the delights of the mist belt climate that can dominate the region. Our first stop was the Undomi park south of Durban where we made a quick stop, seeing Purple-crested Turaco, Forest and Thick-billed Weavers and the pretty little Red-capped Robin Chat. Inland at the heavily forested Oribi Gorge we saw the magnificent African Crowned Eagle, Narina Trogon, the lovely Knysna Turaco, Trumpeter Hornbills, Southern Black Flycatchers, Black-headed Oriole, Black-bellied Starling and Grey, Greater Double-collared, Eastern Olive, Amethyst and Collared Sunbirds. In grasslands nearby we found the endangered Oribi antelope along with Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Buffy Pipit, Rufous-naped lark and Croaking Cisticola and Neddicky We then travelled further inland to the Ingeli Forest for an overnight stay where the heavy cloud and drizzle curtailed further birding.
Wattled Lapwing
The following morning was bright and sunny with a cool south-westerly wind. We wandered from our lodgings to the forest before breakfast. We managed to see a pair of Cape Parrots fly high overhead to their feeding grounds in the forest. We also picked up Forest Canary, the delightful Knysna Turaco, Crowned Hornbill, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler and the Green-backed Camaroptera before returning for breakfast. On the way we saw a single huge Ground Hornbill crossing the valley below the lodge carpeted with Eucalyptus and Pine plantations. After breakfast we drove a short distance to some natural grasslands seeing Red-throated Wryneck on the way. The grasslands are a site for the endangered Blue Swallow. In the course of half an hour we managed to see maybe five of this supremely elegant, steel-blue hirundine. It is not only tied to un-disturbed grasslands but also nests in Aardvark burrows and is as a result so highly specialised that it is one of South Africa’s most threatened birds. We then headed to Underberg below the Drakensberg mountains to meet up with our delightful local guide, the inimitable Steven Piper. On arrival he immediately took us off to see some local specialities. We saw two pairs of Wattled Cranes, a pair of Grey-crowned Cranes and another pair of Blue Cranes along with seven Denham’s Bustards. As we crept through the grasslands in the huge Land Cruiser we stopped at another unprepossessing spot and easily found several Yellow-breasted Pipits; another rare endemic grassland species in serious decline in South Africa.
Ground Woodpecker
After a much needed sleep and a hearty breakfast we found ourselves heading up the Sani pass to explore the alpine scrub and grasslands of the magnificent eastern Drakensberg with their massive craggy ridges. On the lower slopes we found Bush Blackcap and Dark-capped Warbler along with Red-throated Wryneck. As we climbed into the rocky canyon below the pass we found the rare and localized Gurney’s Sugarbird around flowering proteas and the lovely Buff-streaked Chat. A little further up a small ‘flei’ or marshy flat held displaying Long-tailed Widowbirds. Once into Lesotho we stopped at the Sani pass lodge to see the bizarre Sloggett’s Ice Rat and Drakensberg Siskin along with numerous Sentinel Rock Thrushes and five Southern Bald Ibises. A little further on we stopped at a rock strewn scrubby slope and found a stunning pair of Drakensberg Rockjumpers. A superb little bird and one of the most wanted of the trip.
Drakensberg Rockjumper
We then headed to our lunch spot below a huge cliff where we were treated to the view of a Lammergier nest with a large nestling. We also found numerous calling African Rock Pipits and more Drakensberg Siskins. After along day we then retraced our steps for a well earned rest and drinks at the Craignish cottages at Underberg.
Sentinel Rock Thrush
Another early start found us just after dawn in the Xumeni forest just south of Underberg. We began to drink our coffee and rusks and the Cape Parrots began calling. Before long we were being treated to several pairs wheeling around us and prospecting for nest sites, which was fantastic. At the same spot we saw African goshawk and a pair of Crowned Hornbills before we entered the thicker forest. The forests here are dominated by Podocapus species or Yellowwoods as they are known and form dense mossy forests at mid-elevations between 800m and 2000m. They are known as mist belt forests which in South America would be called cloud forests. In the forest we found, Knysna Turaco, Narina Trogon, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Olive Woodpecker and large numbers of Olive Thrushes. We eventually pinned down an Olive Bushshrike and another Barrett’s Warbler before connecting with an active mixed flock in which we found a pair of Starred Robins and a number of Terrestrial Bulbuls. The beautiful mimickry of the Chorister Robin Chat provided us with another trip highlight. We then took our leave and headed back to Underberg for breakfast and packing for our journey to Durban.
Rufous-naped Lark
On arrival we had to say our farewells to Bob and meet up with Joe, our guide for the final part of the trip. We then drove on to Eshowe arriving in the late afternoon for a rest and an evening meal at the country club nearby. The following morning we visited the Dlinza forest reserve in town and walked its aerial boardwalk. This is the best site for Spotted Ground Thrush, which we found with the help of Jothem, our local guide. A pair of these stunning thrushes fed around our feet quite unconcerned at our proximity. Unfortunately I had made the rash decision to leave my camera in the car and therefore failed to get a photograph of the birds. We also saw a Cinnamon Dove, Trumpeter and Crowned Hornbills and a number of Narina Trogons and Purple-crested Turacos. We then packed and headed east to the Ongoya forest on a new sealed road where we eventually found the highly localised Green Barbet and several Red-fronted Tinkerbirds. The Barbet is only found in forests with a high density of fig trees and is as such only found in this forest in Southern Africa. The thick cloud kept the birds active and made conditions very comfortable for us as we drove on to St Lucia where we made our way to the local Gwalagwala park.
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